SNES capacitor replacement

Measuring SNES capacitors

I had intermittent problems powering on the Super Nintendo, it would just black screen screen sometimes, turns out the electrolytic capacitors were bad. The yellow wires and PIC chip as seen on board is my SuperCIC install giving NTSC 60Hz and PAL 50Hz switchable using reset button, that modification is not related to this repair. There were no visible leaks from the electrolytic capacitors but several of them measured bad using the ESR meter so it was high time to recap.

SNES PCB and capacitor kit

I ordered a Super Nintendo PAL Capacitor Kit from Retro Upgrades via eBay, they shipped fast and also included a new voltage regulator which was nice. There are some good capacitors on the board, but I replace all of them since those are likely to go bad soon as well.

Removing capacitor from SNES main board

I like to use the “push down and turn” method using pliers to remove SMD type capacitors, some prefer using SMD rework station to desolder with hot air. In my experience bad capacitors sometimes explode when using hot air which can damage traces and be dangerous due to metal shrapnel flying around, so that’s the main reason I prefer using pliers. Besides, leaky caps sometimes smells like raw fish, especially when heated up (and exploding), so not recommended.

Desoldering leg remnants from bad capacitors

After removing all capacitors by turning in one direction while pushing down towards the board until the capacitor is removed it’s time to get rid of the broken off legs still soldered on the pads.

Capacitors desoldered, cleaned up the board

After removing the leg remnants with the soldering iron I add some flux and a touch of solder for each pad, and then clean up the board with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove flux residue using cotton swabs (cotton buds) to make it clean before soldering the new capacitors in place.

New capacitors on the board

The new capacitors are installed, along with the voltage regulator. I added an extra 470µF 16V capacitor hooked up to ground and output of the voltage regulator to fix the potential vertical line issue, not sure if it really was an issue on this console but cleaning up the power rail voltage is probably good anyway.

Time to test, moment of truth, seems to work.


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