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May you answer my question. I read that wires is important for this mod, so I dont want to spend hour of soldering and get not working mod without a clue what happening. Is these are good:
I use wire wrapping wire 30 AWG (which is thinner than 26 AWG) when modding most stuff, but it’s probably OK with 26 AWG thickness, not sure if 20cm pieces will be long enough for this project though.
For all points except GND, 3.3V, and 5V, 30 AWG wire is fine. For the SD card data lines, I strongly recommend 26 AWG. The SD card wiring (and the card you use as mentioned in the first post) are the most important parts otherwise, you will run into problems.
I am kind of new to this topic, as I was just looking for PS1 mods the last 2 days. I got a PS1 for free with a PU-8 board, but the early model 1658-467-11
SCPH-1002, GPU: CXD 8514Q, CPU: CXD8530BQ
It says that the Pico Mod would work for the PU-8 but I noticed there is an early PU-8- 11/12 and late PU-8- 21/22/23/41 board with small different layouts.
I was only able to find the DIAGRAM PicoStation 100X PU8 for the late version. I guess there is no solder point diagram right now for the early version? So I was looking around to find another solution.
I saw that the previous mod with xStation could work with both models, and they had 2 versions of their mod quick solder boards for early and late boards.
I got a little hooked there to figure it out.
So I compared the xStation late board with the PicoStation soldering points.
I was quite happy to find these pictures. So I started tracing the different positions back and forth
They were quite similar, I think I found all the points there, purple letters should be all the Pico Connections.
01= C= GND
02= J +8V
03= E
04= Q
05= N
06= K
07= L
08= F = Lid button
09= A
10= NC
11= GND
12= M= CLK
13= B
14= I
15= P
16= H
17= G = Reset
18= GND
19= O
20= DAfter that I compared the xStation late board with the xStation early board, as the 20-pin connector should be the same layout, and traced them back out again.
Numbers from the 20-pin connector, letter should be Pico
M is the clock at another position, and F is the Lid button, maybe J the +8V can be connected like in the early Pico manual some elsewhere, and you have to remove some resistors and lift the 4 pins from the IC, so all the things it says in the EARLY_PU-8_Install_Guide.
I am not ready to do this mod right now, as I need to buy the components first, so this is just a thought experiment for now.
What do you think? Could this work if I connect a Pico like this to a -11 board? Or is there something I overlooked or made a mistake on?
Feedback is highly appreciated.
I am kind of new to this topic, as I was just looking for PS1 mods the last 2 days. I got a PS1 for free with a PU-8 board, but the early model 1658-467-11
SCPH-1002, GPU: CXD 8514Q, CPU: CXD8530BQ
It says that the Pico Mod would work for the PU-8 but I noticed there is an early PU-8- 11/12 and late PU-8- 21/22/23/41 board with small different layouts.
I was only able to find the DIAGRAM PicoStation 100X PU8 for the late version. I guess there is no solder point diagram right now for the early version? So I was looking around to find another solution.
I saw that the previous mod with xStation could work with both models, and they had 2 versions of their mod quick solder boards for early and late boards.
I got a little hooked there to figure it out.
So I compared the xStation late board with the PicoStation soldering points.
I was quite happy to find these pictures. So I started tracing the different positions back and forth
They were quite similar, I think I found all the points there, purple letters should be all the Pico Connections.
01= C= GND
02= J +8V
03= E
04= Q
05= N
06= K
07= L
08= F = Lid button
09= A
10= NC
11= GND
12= M= CLK
13= B
14= I
15= P
16= H
17= G = Reset
18= GND
19= O
20= DAfter that I compared the xStation late board with the xStation early board, as the 20-pin connector should be the same layout, and traced them back out again.
Numbers from the 20-pin connector, letter should be Pico
M is the clock at another position, and F is the Lid button, maybe J the +8V can be connected like in the early Pico manual some elsewhere, and you have to remove some resistors and lift the 4 pins from the IC, so all the things it says in the EARLY_PU-8_Install_Guide.
I am not ready to do this mod right now, as I need to buy the components first, so this is just a thought experiment for now.
What do you think? Could this work if I connect a Pico like this to a -11 board? Or is there something I overlooked or made a mistake on?
Feedback is highly appreciated.
Thanks for sharing. Your plan looks solid, but I haven’t tried this so can’t confirm. Perhaps Snaker (OP) knows more. As long as you make sure ground and voltage points are correct on your motherboard it should be safe to try without destroying anything.
Thanks
I think I will make new pictures from my actual PU-8-11 board and mark the traces there with the Pico letters so it is better to visualize without the extra PCB.
I realized you have to zoom quite in on the last picture to see the labels properly, but I confirmed that my board looks identical to the one in the last picture.
I found even another earlier type of PU-8 (Version 7) board in a modchip tutorial but that seems to be a PU-7 board. I confirmed that also from the xStation PU-7 Tutorial.
PU-7 has a slightly different layout but the same Sony chip there as on the PU-8 early board.
Well, luckily I don’t have that board, but I think even that PU-7 could work too, as there was also a xStation (DeltaStation) PCB for this too.
The longer I look at it, I think this works, as the connections on the Pico seem all the same from the xStation; they only changed the device to something cheaper and open source.
The funny thing is I found just now quite a bit of proof on AliExpress. They sell now the PCBs PU-7, PU-8 late, PU-18 just with a ribbon cable now to a Pico and a similar
xStation for PU 7, PU 8 EARLY, PU 8 LATE,PU16, PU 18 offering seamless integration with PICOSTATION
So I think this quite confirms that it should work. I personally wanted to solder the connections by hand and with wire so I could do it quite cheaply.
Maybe I will also mark the Pico letters on the PU-7 picture too, so some people can solder them by hand without buying the whole kit from China.
PU-16, at least from the Ali picture, should also work, but I haven’t seen any tutorials on that so far.
Yes, looks promising.
I have bad experience with longevity regarding soldering PCB directly against PCB, because boards tend to flex differently due to heat and size the solder joints crack over time after many power on/off cycles. I guess if the PCB is really thin (thinking flexible) it will hold better, but still prefer doing it by wire. If there is no other way than using a supplied board I prefer soldering it with short wire snips between PCBs rather than directly by via to solder point.
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